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They also need to wear gloves or goggles to avoid gelato. She works with a diverse team that uses
injury. So why use nitrogen when traditional ice cuisines from all over the world to create unusu-
cream and gelato are already so popular? Is it worth al flavor combinations. “We draw our ideas from
it? Chai and other nitrogen devotees say yes. all food from all cuisines.” N2 Extreme Gelato’s
Chai explained, “It freezes the product two most popular flavors are innovative re-imag-
quickly thus creating very fine ice crystals, giving inings of dessert classics. Their cup of Crème
you a smoother and creamier texture. You have Brûlée inspired gelato rests under a blow-torched
a lot more control over the consistency.” Since it coating of sugar. Their Ferrero Reveal is an ex-
is hand-churned for just a few minutes, the plosion of chocolate and hazelnut. Both flavors
amount of air in the gelato is as small as possible. have dedicated fans. “In fact we get hate mail if
Conversely, commercial machines whip large we take them off the menu,” Chai joked.
amounts of air into ice cream. Tokyo Lamington at N2 Extreme Gelato is
The key to the creamiest cup of gelato is to another great innovation. “It’s a funky concept
keep the ice crystals very small. This is impossi- we wanted to try out,” she shared. “We wanted
ble when freezing milk slowly. With liquid nitro- to combine an Australian dessert (in this case
gen, small ice crystals create a dense and velvety lamington) with our love for Japan. So imagine
cup of gelato. Once you taste how smooth and flavors like black sesame, pandan and coconut,
flavorful nitrogen gelato is, you will understand matcha, and durian.” The possibilities are endless.
why it has so many devoted fans. Meanwhile, some of the biggest brands are
taking note of the trend. For example, Starbucks
Advantages of Gelato Reserve Milano Roastery, the first and only one in
coffee-loving Italy, serves gelato made with liquid
Traditionally, gelato is churned slowly while nitrogen. The thousands of visitors who stop by
ice cream is whipped quickly, meaning ice cream every week can add a shot of Starbucks espresso
has much more ‘overrun’ or air in the finished and watch their ingredients quickly freeze in a
product. “The technical difference usually comes dramatic cloud of white vapor. It has already been
down to the butter fat content (usually higher fat a huge hit for Starbucks and their amazed custom-
in ice cream) and overrun (the amount of air in ers. Other brands will be sure to follow, bringing
the product, usually higher air content in ice liquid nitrogen into the mainstream.
cream),” Chai explained. Less fat is used in gela-
to, which helps the individual flavors stand out Science or Art?
more than in ice cream. The higher density
combined with the fuller flavor of gelato makes When customers walk into the store and
it a perfect choice for nitrogen infusion. see this special making process, with staff in lab
Since the flavor of the gelato comes through coats, long gloves, and goggles, plus tanks of
so powerfully when using nitrogen, top-quality liquid nitrogen, many are reminded of high school
ingredients are essential. Cheap or old ingredi- chemistry classes. The explanations about the
ents cannot be hidden as easily as in traditional molecular gastronomy of nitrogen gelato given
ice cream. by staff members add to the feeling that they are
When gelato is made beforehand, customers witnessing a science experiment.
have no choice in flavor combinations. Flavor Is the process behind liquid infused nitro-
varieties are made hours, days, or even weeks gen gelato more about calculations or creativity?
N2 Extreme Gelato beforehand and sit behind the glass, waiting to Chai answered, “I believe gelato itself is more
go on your cone. With nitrogen infusions, it is science than art, we spend more time on spread-
Originally a physical store in Australia, their focus different. Since customization is encouraged, sheets calculating.” Her dessert flavors are care-
is now on catering events and opening pop-ups every customer can receive a unique flavor of fully created with the liquid nitrogen process in
around the world. A new spot has opened at N2
Brunch Spot in Tokyo and they are looking into gelato that is perfect for them. mind. The exact science of the perfect combina-
more expansion into SE Asia. Chai has crafted more than 500 flavors of tion of ingredients is all done behind the scenes.
n2extremegelato.com.au
Photo / N2 Extreme Gelato