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C Story / Jen Roberts Illustration / Yalan Zhang

Paris Rising

From Philosophical Debates to Modern Brews

The Parisian café scene dates back to the 17th century when Café Procope opened its
doors in Saint-Germain des Prés. Large outdoor terraces with small, circular tables and rat-
tan-woven chairs became much more than just a place to enjoy a shot of espresso–they were
the hotbeds of intellectual debates and philosophical discussions. Café conversations shaped
French culture and became the heart of Parisian life.
In the early 20th century, Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore were made popular by
surrealists, existentialists, and other intellectuals, including Jean-Paul Sartre, Pablo Picasso,
and Ernest Hemmingway. Cafés were social spaces, though they were more about ambiance
than they were about a quality cup of coffee.
It wasn’t until 2005 that the first speciality coffee shop, La Caféothèque, arrived in
Paris. Gloria Montenegro, the former Guatemalan ambassador to France, created La
Caféothèque to highlight countries of origin. At any given time, you can find coffees from
Africa and Latin American, including her native Guatemala. Specialty coffee was slow to catch
on since it wasn’t understood and coffee is so widespread in Paris. Gloria recalls sharing a
Guatemalan coffee with an importer in Le Havre who told her, “These coffees are too good
for the French.”
This all began to change in 2010 when Café Lomi, Coutume Café, and Telescope opened
their doors and fueled a specialty coffee wave in the city. Today, the city is booming with
new specialty coffee shops and roasters. The growth is partially because of the demand but
also because of the dedicated, passionate coffee professionals in Paris and throughout France.
It’s an exciting time for specialty coffee in Paris, as newcomers are building on the
foundation of those who came before them. Artesano is a new coffee shop serving Mexican
coffees near the Seine. Recto Verso, White, and The Coffee are all relatively new additions
to the Marais.
We’ve selected five Parisian specialty coffee shops that show the diversity that exists
within the city. Some have been staples in the Paris coffee scene for years, while others have
opened more recently. While it’s hard to say what the future of specialty coffee will look like
in Paris, if these coffee shops are any indication, it will be innovative and focused on quality.

Coffee

in Paris

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