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                                                                                                                          “In the Chinese market, we don’t promote that matcha   Tea whisking is a way to
                                                                                                                      comes from Chinese.” In fact, however, the original matcha   drink tea. It is popular in
                                                                                                                                                                       the Song Dynasty, and it is
                                                                                                                      technique of ‘tea whisking’ was presented in The Story of Ming
                                                                                                                                                                       considered as one of the
                                                                                                                      Lan, a TV series in 2018 based on the Song Dynasty, and caused   great leisure activities, the
                                                                                                                      a heated discussion with many followers.         other three being flower
                                                                                                                          When Zheng intended to plant a flag on the virgin land   arrangement, antiques
                                                                                                                      of Chinese matcha and bring the authentic drink back to Chi-  identification and incense
                                                                                                                                                                       appreciation.
                                                                                                                      nese customers, the market feedback opposite to matcha
                                                                                                                      ‘authenticity’ set an obstacle for him.
                TING HE ZHENG                                                                                         the global supply chain are taking advantages of exaggerated
                                                                                                                          Around the world, matcha powders for sale at the end of
                                                                                                                      advertising. The story is the same even in Japan. While the
                                                                                                                      matcha with lower quality flowing into the market, the high-
                                                                                                                      est-quality matcha from prestigious tea companies, like the
                                     Make C hin e se  Matc h a                                                        one from Ippodo Tea founded in 1717, is unaffordable and
                                        Fashi on ab l e Ag ain                                                        only served for company leaders, political personnel and
                                                                                                                      other high-class customers in tea companies. Even the famous
                                                                                                                      matcha city Uji is not a representative of high-class matcha,
                                                                                                                      but only a place for popular brands with high sales.
                                                                                                                          “Most of matcha in the Japanese market — if not all
                                                                                                                      of them — are imported from China. Many tea factories
                                                                                                                      in our country are ‘hidden’, as they are Japanese-funded
                                                                                                                      and have signed contracts to provide tea only for Japan.
                                                                                                                      Their products are not sold in Chinese mainland, but they
                                                                                                                      are really good tea.” Zheng mentioned. Luckily, the do-
                                                                                                                      mestic market seems to have waken up, as a bunch of tea
                                                                                                                      producing zones have emerged, such as Shaoxing Royal
                                                                                                                      Tea Village, Mochacun in Henan, tea fields and factories
         M         atcha, originally written as ‘mo-          Removing tags of “japan” and “uji”                      Guizhou where Zheng comes from.
                                                                                                                      in Sichuan and Chongqing, and Tongren Tea Village in
                                                              from matcha
                   cha’ (meaning powdered tea) in
                   Chinese, is a traditional drink
                   made from high-quality green tea             “I decided to open this store only one year           Matcha and matcha flavor: putting the cart
                                                                                                                      before the horse
        that are steamed and ground into powder. In the   ago.” Said Zheng, who was a game scenario art design-
        21st century, it is a frequent ingredient in coffee hous-  er before. He has been interested in ancient Chinese culture   Talking about matcha from Guizhou, Zheng used
        es, milk tea stores and bakeries. With its typical light   since he was little, and his passion about Chang’an, the   local diet habit to explain the difference between Chinese
        green color, matcha has satisfied taste buds for more   prosperous capital of Tang Dynasty, drove him to Kyoto, a   and Japanese matcha. Though people from Guizhou and
        young customers and become their preferred afternoon   Japanese city where Tang style remains. While looking for   Sichuan both love spicy food, Guizhou people were the
        tea choice.                                  the lingering beauty of Tang in Kyoto, he met matcha by          first to eat chilies in China and created more than 10
            As shown in Chinese Matcha Industry Report 2019,   chance in a traditional garden. “The beautiful place served   processing techniques to keep fragrance of pickled chili
        there were 94 matcha-dedicated brands with nearly 500   authentic matcha with a handmade dessert, which is a tra-  and get rid of the numbing spice.
        stores in the market in July 2017; In the middle of 2019,   ditional experience that is passed down in Japan.” Described   These efforts made chili more acceptable and finally
        Beijing, Shanghai and Canton were home to 15 matcha   he, “This is why my store is called ‘Ting He Zheng’, meaning   it became a common food in China. This is similar to how
        brand chains each. Most of these brands choose Jap-  Garden and Zheng. It is about my first encounter with gar-  matcha became acceptable in Japan. In the Southern Song
        anese matcha as their trademark product, and the style   den matcha.”                                         Dynasty, monks brought traditional Chinese tea culture to
        of their brand name, packaging and advertising ma-  No phrase can describe his experience with matcha         Japan, but the bitter drink didn’t satisfy every consumer.
        terials is very ‘Japanesy.’                  better than ‘hit it off.’ At that time, Zheng visited Japan five   To remove the bitterness of tea leaves, Japanese people tried
            This midsummer, the glaring sunshine witnessed   times straight and his destination was always Kyoto, where he   to have tea with other ingredients or put tea into deserts.
        Ting He Zheng settle down in the city center of Shang-  spent days visiting tea houses and learning tea ceremony.   Matcha then became acceptable and popular in Japan, and
        hai. This independent specialty match store is where   While being immersed in matcha experience, he felt sorry   the Japanese matcha took shape.
        Xu Zezheng, the founder, wishes to start the journey of   that matcha originated in China in Tang and Song Dynasties   Bitterness, the natural flavor of tea created by poly-
        reviving Chinese matcha.                     but thrived only in Japan.                                       phenol and chlorophyll, is the essential difference.



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