Page 76 - CTI75_EN
P. 76

C








                                                                                                                                           find a variety that produces similar to Catimor.   work of companies working hand-in-hand
                                                                                                                                           After all, how can we expect farmers to agree   with growers and producers on the ground
                                                                                                                                           with decreasing yields if prices are not higher   to improve sanitary conditions and process-
                                                                                                                                           to compensate, or change from a cultivar that   es, this is going to improve. More producers
                                                                                                                                           has low susceptibility to disease, and tastes   are being trained in sensory protocols
                                                                                                                                           delicious? This tall order in Yunnan has been   (thanks to trainings from companies like
                                                                                                                                           met with various degrees of success. I person-  CQI) and understanding how fermentation
                                                                                                                                           ally know many farmers who are planting   protocols and drying procedures can improve
                                                                                                                                           Pacamara, Bourbon, Typica, Geisha, Java, and   consistency.
                                                                                                                                           the list goes on in pursuit of finding new op-  The knowledge, training, and experience
                                                                                                                                           tions. Nestle has also released a new variety   they are receiving will drive them to turn the
                                                                                                                                           and introduced it to farmers in the region.  corner on the consistency challenges of the
                                                                                                                                               The bottom line is Catimor is not going   past and run forward producing beautiful,
                                                                                                                                           to be replaced widespread. I still believe it   consistent coffees that will make drinking
                                                                                                                                           can be a pretty good cup of coffee and a fan-  Yunnan coffee a memorable experience.
                                                                                                                                           tastic option for farmers; however, we are
                                                                                                                                           going to be seeing new varieties and options   Innovation Abounds
                                                                                                                                           being offered here in Yunnan.
                                                                                                                                                                                    In the years that I have been working
                                                                                                                                           Improvements in Consistency          in Yunnan, I have sat around the tea table,
                                                                                                                                                                                which by the way make fantastic coffee tables
                                                                                                                                               A common complaint I hear about   too, tossing up ideas  and challenging the
                                                                                                                                           Yunnan coffee is that the quality from year   status quo with young and old producers who
                                                                                                                                           to year or batch to batch is not consistent.   continue to push the envelope forward on
                                                                                                                                           Of course, I don’t believe Yunnan is the only   the potential for quality of Yunnan coffee.
                                                                                                                                           region to struggle with this; however, I have   Everything is being put on the table and
                                                                                                                                           experienced it as well with coffees we have   dissected. The layout and general workflow
                                                                                                                                           received as samples from potential partners.   of the wet mill, fermentation times and
                                                                           Photo / Bryon Lippincott for  YCT
                                                                                                                                           But I am convinced that because of the hard   methods, drying procedures, fertilizer regi-
                                                                                                                                                                                ments, and more are just some of the areas
                                                                                                                                                                                where farmers are pushing forward and
                                                                                                                                                                                seeking to “do it better.” Over the years, I
                                                                                                                                                                                have grown to respect the ingenuity, clever-
                                                                                                                                                                                ness, and passion of the farmers I have
                                                                                                                                                                                worked alongside in Yunnan.
                                                                                                                                                                                    The heroes of this story will continue
                                                                                                                                                                                to be the farmers of Yunnan who strive for
                       New Varieties                                                                                                                                            excellence and the roasters who showcase
                                                                                                                                                                                and honor that hard work through introduc-
                           Within the Specialty Coffee industry there are certain biases that exist,                                                                            ing and serving these coffees to consumers
                       some of which are founded on historical experiences and others that are, un-                                                                             across the world. As I enjoy the last drop of
                       fortunately, purely anecdotal. The ‘Catimor bias’ is one such unfortunate posi-                                                                          my delicious Yunnan coffee, I’m excited
                       tion many people hold. There is a general turning up of the nose and push back                                                                           about the future for this region of the world
                       against Catimor as a cultivar. Even though with the innovation in processing,                                                                     Photo / Bryon Lippincott for  YCT  and the way it will continue to challenge
                       care and attention to agronomy, and overall improvement in post-harvest pro-                                                                             people’s biases and surprise them. I know
                       cesses, one can produce a high quality Catimor, it is frequent to find people                                                                            the coffee will grow to be as rich, complex,
                       who upon reading ‘Catimor’ are not willing to give Yunnan coffee a chance.                                                                               and beautiful as the people who work so hard
                           This bias paired with the passion for innovation has driven many farmers                                                                             to produce it.
                       in Yunnan to pursue new varieties. It’s a hard path though. The challenge is to

     78                                                                                                                                                                                                          79
   71   72   73   74   75   76   77   78   79   80   81