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c Origin

Understanding

the

Asian

Coffee Palate

Do Asian coffee professionals have a soft spot in their like sandalwood. Suddenly, I could recall the flavor of the
hearts for natural-processed coffees? Are there coffees Panama coffee, and it all made sense.
that would be “defective” to a Colombian cupper, but This experience, of learning new ways to describe
considered a fine delicacy to a cupper in Shanghai? How flavor from experiences and people outside your own
can we communicate intelligently across cultural divides cultural background, is something that is happening thou-
to become better coffee professionals, and to ensure that sands of times a day, all around Asia and then wider world
the right coffees reach the right markets? of coffee. There are huge differences between how Asians
I was teaching a coffee tasting course in Hong Kong describe coffee, compared to North Americans, com-
a couple of years ago, when I had a revelation about the pared to Latin Americans, compared to Africans, and
flavor of coffee — but it was not at the cupping table. In- on and on. Most people you talk to are aware of these
stead, my discovery about coffee came over a cup of tea. differences, but I am not aware of any systematic attempts
My students were all very high level, and we were to understand them.
doing some intense palate-training exercises. On most As a Westerner working in specialty coffee in Asia,
topics, we understood each other well, despite a language I decided to conduct a series of interviews with top coffee
barrier from English to Cantonese. But there was a certain professionals around the region. I also conducted dozens
flavor in one fine washed Panamanian coffee that students of cuppings in the region, from Thailand to Shanghai,
kept referring to as “oolong tea.” Now, I have had oolong using coffees I know intimately, and carefully
tea before, in the United States and elsewhere. But it’s not observed the results. There is still much to learn
a flavor I am very used to.The next day, I met for lunch and explore, but I’ve started to reach a few
with some of the top coffee professionals, with tradi- tentative conclusions.
tional Chinese dishes and tea. “This!” said one of them,
holding up his tea, “This is the taste I was talking about.”
I lifted the cup to my lips and tasted it, eyes closed.
“Yes, of course,” I thought. There was a pleasant, sweet,
and almost savory taste, reminscent of aromatic woods,

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