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too. Packaging of coffee brands in Rwanda often include
farmers or washing station name, roast degree and date of
roasting attesting to the consumer growth in sophistication.
Steps are being taken in Rwanda to ensure high qual-
ity standards in both exported coffee and locally consumed
coffee. NAEB and many qualified technicians, consultants,
roasters, agencies, AST and CQI trainers, as example, offer
education from barista to farmers, cup to processing, and
roasting. This time during my stay in Kigali, I witnessed a
massive growth in specialty coffee cafes in the city offering
a variety of Rwanda coffee, identified by growing region,
washing station or farmers. Kivu Noir and Question Coffee
are two that come to mind, there are several. All to the
delight of the local population who have taken speciality
Rwanda coffee to heart.
As with any agriculture product there are challenges.
Sherri during a cup tasting with friends Of note in Rwanda and other African nations, a defect
known as Potato Taste Defect, or PTD—occurs in coffees
from Rwanda, Western Uganda, Burundi, and the Demo-
cratic Republic of Congo. In my experience, PTD is a very
Previously known through exporters and importers Rwandan specialty coffee is cultivated by hundreds of sneaky defect. It can be noted to occur totally randomly
and the well-established Cup of Excellence program, the thousands of skilled smallholder farmers utilizing washing and without any real signs of the defect prior to roasting.
Best of Rwanda is an initiative which is owned by NAEB stations and a system of day lots to separate and isolate It smells and tastes exactly like what the name implies:
with the guidance and support of various agencies includ- individual lots in the competition. raw potatoes. It is believed to be a result of an infestation
ing USAID. The national and international juries took Third party auditors who monitored and verified each of the antestia insect which attacks the sweetest of coffee
place in the new NAEB Laboratory, which is ISO certified, entry from washing stations and each lot was assigned a cherries. In turn the plant may have a natural defense and
built two years ago with funding of a European Union code for competition which was verified throughout the produce a chemical reaction resulting in potato taste.
association. The Best of Rwanda was the official inaugural sessions allowing each sample to be blind cupped. Washing NAEB and others are working tirelessly to identify and
cupping event in the large fully outfitted laboratory built stations and small holder farmers were allowed to submit eradicate this defect. I will say, cupping with both nation-
to SCA premium campus standards. only two entries. This accountability brought responsibili- al and international jurors, there is always disappointment
The Best of Rwanda country wide coffee competition ty to the entrants to select their best as a first step to qual- in the cupping room when a sample is disqualified as a
and auction supports smallholder farmers and promotes ity within the BoR competition. result of PTD. I will strongly advise, the defect itself can
sustainable coffee production. Despite its small size, Rwan- Roasters and consumer preferences have become be just one bean in a hundred if not more beans and may
da’s diverse terroir offers ideal conditions for growing more sophisticated over the past decade. Ideally, consum- not appear again in the entire delicious lot. To ensure
specialty coffee. There are 400,000 small holder farmers ers and roasters should be willing to pay top dollar for top protocol during Best of Rwanda, we did disqualify lots
and more than 300 washing stations each above 1600 meters quality. Price wars may exist but not to anyone’s advantage which exhibited the defect as a precaution.
which greatly contributes to the quality of the growing particularly to the farmers. In roads to origins have be-
coffee cherries. Coffees grown are Arabica red bourbon. come the norm for “coffee hunters” seeking unique high
Some people may assume all coffee of Africa is similar quality coffees. Collaborations between coffee farmers
or only know the name of Ethiopia as a source for African and buyers are being formed through the relationships
specialty coffee. In the past, Kenya was the shining star. built within the Best of Rwanda. Trust, traceability and
Within each specialty coffee producing country lies diver- quality are the building blocks for future generations of
sity. The agricultural techniques used, terroir, which in- coffee farmers and coffee lovers.
cludes elevation, soil competition, variety, harvest and Coffee was introduced by Germans in the early 1900s,
processing affect its taste. A short, generalized taste profile it is dominated by mainly ‘bourbon’ type of Arabica coffees.
exists; Rwanda - shiny citrus brightness balanced with Ten years ago, Rwanda’s coffee was 100% fully washed.
floral and mandarin orange notes, structured and balanced. Today, fully washed may be the top contender in percentage Burundi - might be
Reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc with clarity and translu- of coffee exported but Natural, Honey and Experimental
cence and honeyed finish. processing has been introduced to the delight of the con- more like a Merlot, red wine,
Burundi - might be more like a Merlot, red wine, spices, sumers and speaks well to the adaptation of the farmers to
deep, complex. Kenya- cranberries, Cabernet with dimension, evolving tastes. Consumer preferences brought to Rwanda spices, deep, complex.
and Ethiopia - floral, intense perfume with clarity. by buyers have influenced the marketing within the country

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