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                                                                                                                                                                       premium prices for their coffee if the farm meets
                                                                                                                                                                       their standards.
           India is not well known around the                                                                                                                              India fulfills this condition already but the coffee
           world as a major coffee producer                                                                                                                            is rated at the same standard as elsewhere, something
                                                                                                                                                                       that doesn’t help the producers. In fact, certification
           and when talking about specialty                                                                                                                            would not make sense for Indian coffee plantations as
                                                                                                                                                                       it is not cheap for farmers and is followed by a long
           coffee, an Indian Single Origin is                                                                                                                          bureaucratic  process.  India  produces  some  amazing
                                                                                                                                                                       tasting coffees, but the coffee that gets exported is not
           hardly mentioned.                                                                                                                                           the same as the unique tasting coffees that are available
                                                                                                                                                                       within  the  country.  The  quantity  of  what  we  know
                                                                                                                                                                       today  as  specialty  coffee  is  not  much  and  is  mostly
                                                                                                                                                                       consumed within the country.

                                                                                                                                                                       The Meaning of “Specialty”

                                                                                                                                                                           India has a steep growing rate when it comes to
                                                                                                                                                                       consuming  specialty  coffee.  There  is  an  increasing
                                                                                                                                                                       trend  of  specialty  coffee  shops  and  chains  opening
                                                                                                                                                                       across  the  country.  And  many  coffee  producers  in
                                                                                                                                                                       India expect a premium in price when they sell what
                                                                                                                                                                       they  consider  as  specialty  coffee,  but  this  is  where
                                                                                                                                                                       things get tricky. Interestingly, “specialty means dif-
                                                                                                                                                                       ferent things to different people.
                                                                                                                                                                           Mr. Iyer, a small coffee farmer, described it to
           The Indian Coffee Industry in Numbers            Indian coffee is exported to a lot of countries, but                                                       me  as  coffee  that  has  taken  more  work,  labor,  and
                                                        amongst  the  top  10  are  —  Italy,  Germany,  Belgium,                                                      money to produce and hence specialty coffee is ex-
               India  is  the  7th  largest  coffee  producer  in  the   Russia, U.S.A., and in total India had exported coffees                                       pensive coffee, regardless of the taste. Pranoy, who
           world,  and  the  6th  largest  exporter  of  the  world.  I   to 127 countries during the period of 2021-22. Chances                                       is a 5th generation farmer says that specialty to him
           guess most of you didn’t know that. But wait there’s   are,  a  lot  of  people  from  these  countries  have  drank                                        is all about taking special care of the coffee from the
           more, India also exports 70% of its production. And   coffee from India, but without actually knowing it. Most                                              planting till the time it is brewed, and he wishes to
           even though that remaining 30% is what the country   of the coffee that is sourced from India goes into blend-                                              add as much care and value he can in selecting, pro-
           consumes  domestically,  it  makes  India  one  of  the   ing, so the roaster down the road in Italy, would have                                            cessing, drying and brewing the best quality beverage
           highest coffee consuming — coffee producing coun-  Indian Robusta in their espresso blend.                                                                  he can.
           tries.  India  comprises  around  392,000  small-scale   I would like to talk to you about a couple of par-                                                     On the other hand, for a roaster, specialty means
           coffee growers, which makes up 99% of all the coffee   ticularly  major  challenges  for  Indian  coffee,  amongst                                          it is a coffee that has scored above 80 on a 100-point
           producers.  Coffee  provides  livelihood  for  about 1.5   the  common  big  challenges  that  exist  in  the  coffee                                       scale. According to Siddharth of Gshot Coffee Roast-
           million families.                            producing  industry  worldwide  like  climate  change,                                                         ery in Goa, there is also a really small percentage of
               According to a legend, coffee came to India in   staffing shortages and volatile prices. The first challenge                                            roasters, for whom specialty means knowing the bean
           the 1600 A.D. by Baba Budan, a 16th-century Sufi and   is the understanding of specialty coffee, and the second                                             to  cup  journey  of  their  coffee,  and  recognizing  the
           the first man to break the Arab coffee monopoly of   is the return of investment and risk. Speciality coffee is                                             amount of care that has gone into it.
           the time. India is not well known around the world as   a gray area; the term has no unanimous understanding                                                    While chatting to Praveena a friend and roast at
           a major coffee producer and when talking about spe-  worldwide,  aside  from  the  Speciality  Coffee  Associa-                                             Dryft Coffee in Alabama, U.S.A., she explained that
           cialty coffee, an Indian Single Origin is hardly men-  tion’s (SCA) scoring guidelines.                                                                     the price the roasters would pay for a large quantity
           tioned. Places where Indian Coffee is known are either   It  all  starts  at  the  farm  and  the  conditions  in                                           of “specialty coffee” from India is similar to what they
           just for the washed Robusta or the Indian Monsoon   which the coffee is grown. Most producing countries                                                     would pay for a specialty lot from let’s say Brazil or
           Malabar, a special coffee processing method near the   aspire  to  have  a  biodiversity-friendly  environment                                              Tanzania, but the challenge is when the expense of
           seashore, where there is higher atmospheric humidi-  and this  is something that India has in abundance.                                                    freight  and  transport  and  duty  is  all  added,  Indian
           ty. I believe that India as a coffee origin country can   For a coffee farm in Brazil to achieve this environ-                                              coffee tends to be a little expensive, if not as expen-
           be a lot more than these two coffee types, both for   mental condition, they usually try to obtain a certif-                                                sive as the coffee from other well known coffee pro-
           the local people and the ones abroad.        icate from organizations that tell them they can get                                                           ducing countries.



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