Page 90 - #64 eng 电子版

c Origin

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Kushalappa,
Ajjamada, C. &
Albertus B. Eskes.
Coffee Rust: Epidemiology,
Resistance, and Management.
CRC Press, Inc. (1989) 178.

and pulping, wet coffee in parchment may be sold to While volcanic island coffee produced throughout the
the processor (or middleman) for milling. Once world may share certain characteristics like lower acidity
stripped of its protective parchment shell, the coffee and earthy sweetness, Indonesian coffee has its own pecu-
then finishes drying for export. This method leaves its liarities. In particular Sumatra, unlike most of the other
mark on the distinctive jade-like color of Sumatran Pacific islands, has retained the tradition of wet hulling.
coffees, as well as their funky, earthy flavors, un- The distinctive flavor of this process, combined with re-
matched elsewhere on the globe. gional idiosyncrasies and the distinctive mix of fungus-re-
There is yet another part to the story of Indo- sistant hybrid varieties has created some of the most
nesian coffee, however. After more than a century strongly recognizable coffee flavors in the world. Earthy,
of dominance on the global stage, a major coffee leaf herbal, and musty, Sumatran coffees are undeniably not for
rust outbreak began in Ceylon in 1869 and spread the faint of heart, and unsurprisingly retain a special place
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like wildfire throughout Asia and the Indian and in the annals of specialty coffee history.
Pacific ocean islands. For the first time in history, The world of specialty coffee has expanded with an
coffee production shifted nearly in its entirety to uncommon rapidity in the early years of the 21st centu-
the Western Hemisphere. The introduction of Ro- ry. Yet the diversity and depth of the current industry
busta would reinvigorate the Indonesian coffee is built on the backbone of origins like Harar and Suma-
market, and eventually introduce the region to the tra, their distinctive flavors that ignited curiosity and
Robusta-Arabica Timor hybrid. Heirloom Typica, their unique histories without which the world would
except in the most remote, high elevation reaches of likely be bereft of the beverage we love.
Sumatra, would cease to exist in its entirety, replaced
wholesale by resistant hybrids.

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