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Despite my wanderlust and love for travel, I never had There was a breakthrough in the late
the opportunity to visit Thailand, so I wanted to learn more
about this special coffee scene. I sought to understand more 90’s when coffee shop culture started to
about coffee in Thailand, from production and experimen-
tal processing techniques at the farm level, to the emergence take root and spread across Thailand,
of world-class coffees on the competition stage, to con-
sumption trends within the historically tea-drinking coun- creating a thriving domestic market.
try. Through online research and interviews with people
familiar with the scene, I have gained a new appreciation
for this little-known producing country.
Someday I’ll get to travel there to experience the coffee
and culture firsthand. But until then, let’s travel to Thailand
together and explore the coffee scene through this article!

Cultivation and Production at a Glance

Coffee cultivation was introduced in Thailand rela- gions, with more rainfall and higher humidity. About 80,000 He planted a few trees and his neighbors took notice.
tively recently and has seen tremendous growth within a tons of Robusta is grown in the south. Before he got there, Kaleb told me, “About 50% of young
few decades. The Thai government, under the direction of According to Katisomsakul, the main specialty Ara- people would leave to go find work in big cities or other
King Bhumibol Adulyadej launched a series of coffee culti- bica varieties produced in Thailand are Catimor, Yellow, provinces. Many times this resulted in enslavement, drug
vation programs in the 1970s to encourage local communi- and Red Bourbon, and Java. He tells me that in recent years addictions, and other problems. Since beginning to grow
ties to grow cash crops and lead them away from opium coffee producers have been experimenting with different coffee (and other high-value crops), there have been al-
poppy production. Jordan told me, “This program was quite varieties and fermentation techniques borrowed from most no young people leaving the community for outside
successful and opium poppy fields were fairly quickly re- producers in other countries, primarily Colombia and employment. In fact, they are a source of employment for
placed with coffee farms.” Thailand started exporting coffee Panama. The result is higher quality coffees with fruitier, other nearby communities.” Kaleb mentioned that other
in 1976. Jordan continued, “At that time most of the arabi- more distinctive flavors. factors, including agricultural opportunities due to less
ca was grown for export, or for use in large mass market Jordan agrees. When asked if there is a typical flavor sustainable crops such as ginger and cassava, have influ-
coffee companies such as Nestle or Moccona. Although the profile of Thai coffee, he tells me, “10 years ago, it used to enced the retention of young people in his community,
government really promoted coffee growing, there were be known as kind of rough, but heavy chocolaty body with along with coffee. He continues to encourage members of
many challenges for local farmers, like low market prices, maybe some stone fruit and floral notes. I think that’s back his community and surrounding areas to focus on coffee
and insufficient expertise or education on coffee produc- when it was mostly washed Catimor. Now there are so many due to its longer-term sustainable benefits.
tion. For a while, things were pretty bleak, with little inter- varietals and creative processes, that there is no real ‘stand- Katisomsakul also told me stories of farmers who
national interest in Thai coffee due to it being predominant- ard profile.’ There is a ton of variety.” have greatly benefited from a focus on specialty coffee.
ly the Catimor variety.” Despite those challenges, Thai One farmer had a small shack for a house when he began,
coffee cultivation grew. Coffee as a Catalyst to Socioeconomic but has been able to build a large home for his family.
Jordan told me “There was a breakthrough in the Change Villages in the north had no electricity and had to take
late 90’s when coffee shop culture started to take root and cold showers each day, but have been able to bring
spread across Thailand, creating a thriving domestic mar- As a coffee producer, Jordan runs Gem Forest Coffee electricity to their area with their earnings. Another
ket.” From that point on, most Thai-grown coffee has re- in Northern Thailand. Jordan grew up in Thailand, spent a farmer never thought he would be able to see the cap-
mained within the country. few years in the United States where he learned to roast, ital city of Bangkok, but was able to fly there. The trip
Another reason Thai coffee is consumed in Thailand and returned to his home country around 2005. “I began opened his mind and changed his outlook on what is
is because outside coffee is expensive. Jordan told me there growing different varietals of coffee in a small mountain possible through coffee.
is a “90% tariff on imported coffee. This encourages con- village in Northern Thailand. This project started as an
sumers to look to locally grown coffee instead of consuming effort to provide the local farmers with better local options Challenges to Coffee Production
imported beans.” As consumption grew through the 90s and for livelihood,” he explains. At that time, he noticed many
00s, the most affordable option was home-grown. of his neighbors’ families were breaking apart because there Despite the accelerating growth within specialty
Thailand produces both Arabica and Robusta coffees. were no employment opportunities locally. People - espe- coffee production, farmers are experiencing hardships
Arabica cultivation is concentrated in the north where the cially the entrepreneurial ones - would move to the city to related to a changing climate. This year, Katisomsakul
farms benefit from higher elevations and cooler overnight find jobs. It was difficult for families to stay intact and for explained, Thailand saw a massive reduction in coffee
temperatures. Northern Thailand produces 10,000 tons of communities to retain talent. Kaleb had the insight that if production due to increased rainfall as a result of climate
Arabica coffee, plus around 30,000 pounds of Robusta. jobs were available in the area, perhaps people would stay change. If a “normal” year is 100% production, Thailand
However, Robusta is grown primarily in the southern re- with their families in the villages and thrive. was only able to produce 35% this year.

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