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C C  Story / Kat Melheim














               THAILAND











                         WHEN COFFEE




              WORLDS CONVERGE





















                                                                                                                          Whereas most well-known coffee-producing countries   I see Thai coffee on café menus like I do Colombian, Ethi-
                                                                                                                      export a majority of their green coffee (think Colombia,   opian, or even Indian coffees? Why haven’t I tried much
                                                                                                                      Ethiopia, Brazil, and even Vietnam) and many consuming   coffee grown in Thailand?
                                                                                                                      countries must import that coffee (the United States, Ger-  Pack Katisomsakul, an expert and entrepreneur in Thai
                                                                                                                      man, Japan, the Netherlands), Thailand is different.   coffee and founder of 50 Mill Street, explained to me that
                                                                                                                          Earlier this year I met Kaleb Jordan, a coffee produc-  Thailand  has  a  very  unique  situation:  “All  the  coffee,  we
                                                                                                                      er  and  roaster  from  Northern  Thailand.  He  shared  his   consume in our country. We grow coffee, we roast our coffee
                                                                                                                      coffees and his incredible story with me during a week-long   by ourselves, and we drink our own coffee.” Meaning, it’s not
                                                                                                                      coffee workshop we were both attending in Colombia. He   that Thailand doesn’t produce amazing coffee – it’s that they
                                                                                                                      told me about building the infrastructure needed to process   don’t export much of it. They drink it domestically.
                                                                                                                      coffee and bring it to market, encouraging his neighbors
        Thailand is a country of vibrant culture and delectable                                                       toward  specialty  coffee  cultivation,  and  experimenting
        cuisine. Traditionally a tea-drinking nation, this country in                                                 with different yeasts and techniques in coffee processing.
        Southeast Asia has a unique relationship to coffee, both                                                      While talking to Kaleb I realized that I knew very little
                                                                                                                      about Thai coffee. I wondered why – why haven’t I heard
        in terms of production and consumption.                                                                       much about specialty coffee from this country? Why don’t                        85



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