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C

Our reliance on coffee

did not overshadow the

versatility of our farms.

Yet, our reliance on coffee did not overshadow the
versatility of our farms. In Nariño, where small parcels
of land abound, self-sufficiency reigns supreme. Surplus
harvests ensured a diversified income stream, a practice
ingrained in our familial ethos. I have clear memories of
my paternal grandmother, Amelia, who, until her final
days, ventured out to the town’s market square to sell
our farm’s produce, a tradition my aunt Elvira upholds agricultural life. As children, we eagerly lent a hand with
to this day. In my youth, I eagerly joined them on week- chores, particularly during the bustling harvest season
ends, drawn to the vibrant tapestry of colors, scents, and when every available hand was invaluable. These experi-
flavors that adorned the market stalls. Surrounded by an ences weren’t just chores; they were cherished moments
array of farm-fresh offerings, I found particular delight of bonding with the land that sustained us. Our parents
in the tropical fruits, picked straight from the fields. instilled in us a deep appreciation for our farming heri-
What made these outings truly memorable was the op- tage, ensuring that we remained connected to the coun-
portunity to dine in the market kitchens, where dishes tryside and never forget our roots.
crafted from the same ingredients sold at the stalls tan- My upbringing wasn’t solely rooted in farm life,
talized my taste buds. This experience underscored for thanks to my maternal grandmother, Enriqueta, whose
me the profound connection between gastronomy and forward-thinking ideals shaped our family’s trajectory.
cultural identity—an essential starting point for under- Despite being born into a life of privilege as the daughter
standing a country’s heritage. of a wealthy family, Enriqueta defied societal expecta-
Our family’s exchange of goods between varying cli- tions by falling in love with my grandfather Ismael, who
mates was a time-honored tradition. Those from warmer lacked financial means. Their union meant that Enrique-
regions would bring their produce to colder areas, and ta’s fate became intertwined with her husband’s, navigat-
vice versa—a practice that brought diverse flavors to our ing economic challenges together.
table. This was how coffee found its way into our home Leaving behind a life of luxury and the comfort of
sporadically; my mother would roast the beans, and my servants, Enriqueta embraced the toils of farm life, from
brothers would expertly grind them. However, this pro- milking cows to tending fields and preparing meals for
cess wasn’t conducted in a state-of-the-art coffee roast- her family and farm workers. Through her labor, she
er; rather, it took place in a simple clay pot known as a came to understand the hardships faced by women in ag-
“cayana,” directly over a crackling wood fire. riculture. Determined to chart a different course for her
During school breaks, we eagerly visited both daughters, Enriqueta clandestinely sold farm produce to
farms, immersing ourselves in the seasonal rhythms of fund their education in town.

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