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Consider the term “anaerobic fermentation.” De- During our conversation, Niko emphasized the
spite efforts to define and differentiate it, every fermen- importance of transparency and accountability in direct
tation process is inherently anaerobic. Similarly, the term trade relationships. Indeed, transparency stands as the
“direct trade” lacks a universal definition. Each roaster cornerstone of what constitutes a genuine “direct trade”
applies their own interpretation, resulting in a spectrum coffee relationship. Its significance transcends mere
of approaches and practices. As a result, clarity and consumer-facing disclosures; it extends to fostering
consistency in communicating these practices to con- transparency among all parties involved, including pro-
sumers remain elusive,” he said. ducers, exporters, and roasters, “Through my experienc-
His observation of the evolving definition of es, I’ve come to recognize that open communication
“direct trade” highlights a fundamental ambiguity about pricing and quality among stakeholders streamlines
within the industry. While initially heralded as a the process,” he added.
symbol of ethical sourcing, the term has morphed into
a nebulous concept, lacking concrete definitions or
standards. As Niko aptly notes, “It seems now that
direct trade is not enough.” This admission speaks
volumes about the industry’s struggle to reconcile
ethical aspirations with commercial realities.
Niko challenges common misconceptions surround-
ing direct trade, particularly regarding the role of inter-
mediaries like exporters. “One of the prevalent miscon-
ceptions I’ve encountered is the belief that direct trade
should exclude exporters or “middlemen” entirely.
However, my experience as a green buyer has taught me
otherwise,” he shared.
Indeed, exporters play a multifaceted role beyond
Niko Sunko (left) during a trip to origin
simply exporting coffee; they act as crucial intermediar-
ies, facilitating connections between roasters and pro-
ducers, and supporting producers in scaling up, achieving Bell Lane coffees
financial stability, enhancing quality, and staying abreast
of market trends. While there are exceptions, it’s incum-
bent upon roasters to align themselves with exporters
who share their values.
Navigating the Purpose of Direct Trade “Initially, the concept of direct trade was rath- “A recent experience in Sierra Sur, Oaxaca, shed
er straightforward, heavily influenced by industry light on the indispensable role exporters play in cof-
In recent years, the coffee industry has witnessed leaders approximately five years ago. It involved fee-producing regions. In this area, where the average
a notable shift towards ethical sourcing practices, purchasing green coffee without the involvement of lot size for a producer is less than 100kg, the involvement
reflecting a growing consciousness about the social exporters, a practice deemed standard for direct of exporters is vital for making production feasible. This
and environmental impact of coffee production. This trade at the time. However, as the industry has underscores the necessity of recognizing the broader
shift is characterized by a commitment to direct trade evolved, we’ve observed a shift. Many roasters now network of relationships beyond just the roaster-produc-
relationships, fair wages, and social responsibility engage in direct trade practices without necessarily er dynamic. Additionally, there’s a prevalent misconcep-
initiatives. At the heart of this movement lies the labeling their products as such. It’s become evident tion that direct trade always ensures better pay for
pursuit of social and environmental justice within the that simply engaging in direct trade is no longer producers. However, this isn’t always the case. I’ve en-
coffee supply chain. sufficient,” Niko shared. countered instances where direct trade arrangements
Yet, beneath the surface of these noble aspirations “Consumers are demanding more than just labels; resulted in pricing below the producers’ expectations,
lies a complex web of challenges and contradictions. I they seek tangible proof and a deeper understanding of highlighting the complexities and nuances inherent in
recently attended a talk on direct trade by Niko Sunko, the motivations behind these practices. What was once ethical sourcing practices,” he said.
Head Roaster and Green Coffee Buyer at Bell Lane, a perceived as an edge for sales has now become a neces- His acknowledgment of exporters’ vital contribu-
roastery in Ireland. Niko provided a firsthand account sity for transparency and accountability. As our industry tions to the supply chain disrupts the simplistic narratives
of the evolution of “direct trade” within the industry, so progresses rapidly, we find ourselves in a conundrum: often propagated by proponents of direct trade. Howev-
I reached out to him to find out more. His reflections despite the proliferation of direct trade practices, we er, his revelation that direct trade does not always equate
offer a glimpse into the shifting perceptions and practic- lack a standardized vocabulary to articulate the nuances to better pay for producers exposes a harsh reality be-
es surrounding ethical sourcing. of these relationships. neath the veneer of ethical consumption.

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