Page 71 - #59 English
P. 71

In 2013 I went to Mahlkonig and ran some tests on
              the EK43 to figure out why it makes coffee taste so delight-
              ful. Turns out it produces many more fines than any of
              the other grinders in the test at comparable settings. So,
              best-in-category grinder produces more of the ‘evil’ stuff
              than any of the others. This was a red flag that kick
              started my hunt for more answers.
                  When sifting my coffee for the 2012 World Brewers
              Cup, I was eliminating all grinds below 250 microns. I had
              to then lengthen the brew time and increase my extraction
              to levels higher than I’d ever seen before (+25%). This
              ultra-high extraction tasted super great, and is very simi-
              lar to the level of extraction that every fine undergoes
              during every brew; maximum. Nearly-maximum extrac-
              tion tasted so good I managed to take home the title. So
              why do fines get blamed for bad over-extracted flavours
              when over-extracted but sifted coffees taste great?
                  Posit: Perhaps temperature/time/roasting is to blame
              for over-extraction, not fines.
                  Nearly every brew ever made has had fines in it. And
              if you think about it, the outer surface of the larger grinds  2
              should behave exactly the same as the fines themselves
              (It’s the inside of the larger grinds that creates the prob-
              lems). This means that a whole lot of the dissolved coffee
              flavour has come from “fine-like” extractions. Perhaps,
              once the roast is of good quality, it’s brew time and tem-
              perature  that  are  coaxing  out  undesirable  flavours  of
              over-extraction.
                                                               Alignment is Key

                                                                   Grinding burrs need to be parallel, and concentri-
              Nearly every brew ever made                      cally and radially aligned to work properly. The toler-
                                                               ances required are miniscule. A misalignment of
              has had fines in it.                             ~0.05mm noticeably changes the quality of coffee
                                                               produced by a grinder.
                                                                   A number of baristas have been experimenting with
                                                               alignment of their burrs and seeing extraordinary results.
                                                               Ever since I played around with a Versalab grinder and
                                                               saw how bad the coffee tasted when the burrs were mis-
                                                               aligned, I’ve been very conscious about alignment. Frank
                                                               at Titus Grinding has been doing lots of cool things with
                                                               the Versalab grinder; improving their alignment and sur-
                                                               face finishes.
                                                                   EK43’s have a little bit of play between the burrs and
                                                               carrier/body. This can lead to misalignment if assembled
                                                               without care. EK43’s that are aligned well make coffee
                                                               that’s blindingly obviously better. (I’m currently working
                                                               on a visual guide for proper alignment, and thinking of
                                                               building a kit to align the burrs during assembly. Please
                                                               let me know if you’re keen to buy a jig that does that.)
                                                                   Alignment is one of those things that’s (kind of) free,
                                                               and can make a massive difference to coffee quality. I
                                                               often say VST baskets are the best bang-for-buck improve-
                                                               ment you can make to your coffee. I’m feeling like proper
                                                               burr alignment could be next on the list.




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