Panama, a small country with a mighty reputation in the world of specialty coffee, has seen its coffee industry evolve from modest beginnings to global prominence. This evolution has been marked by innovative farming practices, meticulous processing techniques, and a relentless pursuit of quality, all of which have cemented Panama’s status in the specialty coffee scene. At the heart of this transformation is the Best of Panama (BoP) auction, a prestigious event that showcases the country’s finest coffees to the world.

In this narrative, we delve into the vibrant world of Panamanian coffee through the eyes of four key figures who have been instrumental in its rise: Franz Zeimetz of Lost Origin Coffee Lab, Hunter Tedman of Black Moon Farm and President of the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP), Fan Dian of GrandCrü Coffee, and Boram Um, the 2023 World Barista Champion.

Each of these experts brings a unique perspective and invaluable contributions to the BoP auction, highlighting the innovative spirit, dedication to sustainability, and collaborative efforts that define Panama’s specialty coffee industry. Through their stories, we will explore the intricate processes and passionate people behind Panama’s acclaimed coffee, illuminating how these visionaries are shaping the future of coffee excellence.

The Evolution of Coffee in Panama

The history of Panamanian coffee began in the late 19th century with European immigrants who brought the first coffee plants to the province of Chiriquí, known as the Valley of the Moon by its original indigenous inhabitants. This western region of Panama became the cradle of coffee cultivation, where today, the Ngöbe and Buglé tribes play crucial roles in coffee production. Within Chiriquí lie the two principal coffee-growing regions: Boquete and Volcán.

Panama’s coffee production thrives primarily in three regions, situated at altitudes ranging from 1,000 to 1,600 meters. Boquete, the most renowned and oldest coffee region, is complemented by Volcán, located on the steep southwestern slopes of Volcán Barú, and Renacimiento, a more remote but equally significant area. Boquete and Volcán benefit from robust transport and processing infrastructures, featuring exceptional wet processing stations and dry mills, which contribute to their coffee’s high quality.

The country’s distinctive geography, with its mountainous terrain and nutrient-rich volcanic soil, creates ideal conditions for coffee cultivation. The microclimates fostered by winds from the north produce a fine mist known as bajareque, which acts as a natural air conditioner, slowing the ripening process of coffee cherries and enhancing their sweet, wholesome flavors.

Despite a steady decline in production from the mid-1990s peak of around 200,000 bags to 95,000 bags in 2014-2015, Panamanian coffee remains distinguished by its quality. The country’s volcanic soil, altitude, and climate offer perfect conditions for growing premium varieties like Caturra, Typica, Bourbon, Catuai, San Ramon, and the famed Geisha. These high-quality varieties have cemented Panama’s reputation in the world of specialty coffee.

The acclaim for Panamanian coffee is largely due to the meticulous attention to detail throughout the harvesting and processing stages. Small batch production, a consequence of the modest size of individual farms, ensures that each lot receives dedicated care. This attention to detail translates into a superior coffee experience that has captured the global market.

Geisha coffee, synonymous with excellence, has a compelling story in Panama. Originally from Ethiopia, it was introduced to Panama from Costa Rica’s CATIE agricultural research station in 1963 to combat coffee leaf rust. Initial efforts to cultivate Geisha at low altitudes failed, producing poor-quality coffee.

For decades, Geisha languished in obscurity until 2004, when Finca Esmeralda, a pioneering Panamanian farm, isolated its Geisha production and entered the beans into the Taste of Panama coffee competition. The Geisha not only won but astonished producers with its extraordinary flavor profile, reminiscent of fine Yirgacheffe. This breakthrough put Panama on the map as a producer of high-quality Geisha coffee, inspiring other farmers to follow suit.

It is evident that the country’s coffee sector has evolved from traditional farming methods to embracing cutting-edge techniques, setting new standards in the specialty coffee industry. At the heart of this transformation is the Best of Panama (BoP) auction, a prestigious platform that showcases the crème de la crème of Panamanian coffee to the world.

BoP, organized by the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP), has not only elevated the global status of Panamanian coffee but also fostered a culture of relentless innovation and excellence among local producers. This auction serves as both a stage for competition and a crucible for experimentation, where the best minds in the industry push the boundaries of coffee quality and processing techniques. 

Introducing the Visionaries

Transitioning from the world of artisanal craft beer to coffee, Franz Zeimetz has emerged as a pivotal figure in Panama’s coffee scene. As the founder and Head of Coffee at Lost Origin Coffee Lab, Franz brings a unique perspective to coffee processing, grounded in his extensive experience with fermentation. 

Lost Origin Coffee Lab, located above a craft brewery in Panama City, is a testament to Franz’s innovative approach. Far removed from traditional coffee farms, this lab thrives on a dynamic trial-and-error methodology, constantly pushing the envelope of what’s possible in coffee processing. By collaborating with top producers across Panama, Franz and his team have crafted exceptional coffees that have garnered international acclaim, including notable placements in the BoP competition.

Franz’s journey into coffee began as a hobby, but his background in beer fermentation provided a robust foundation for exploring coffee’s microbial life. At Lost Origin, meticulous control over variables like air quality, water treatment, and equipment sterilization ensures a clean, consistent product. This scientific rigor has allowed Franz to develop new fermentation protocols that enhance the natural flavors of coffee, setting new benchmarks for quality and consistency.

Hunter Tedman’s journey in coffee is one of transformation and dedication to sustainability. As the owner of Black Moon Farm and President of SCAP, Hunter has been instrumental in driving the specialty coffee movement in Panama. Situated in Alto Quiel, Boquete, Chiriquí, Black Moon Farm sits at an elevation of 1,700 to 1,780 meters above sea level. Once a vegetable farm with degraded soil, it has been revitalized under Hunter’s stewardship through regenerative agricultural practices.

Hunter’s approach to coffee farming is holistic, focusing on restoring soil fertility and promoting biodiversity. By planting a variety of tree species to create a forest canopy, Hunter supports the growth of coffee trees while enhancing the ecosystem. This commitment to sustainability is reflected in Black Moon Farm’s high-scoring Geisha varieties, which have earned top marks at the BoP competition.

As President of SCAP, Hunter is a vocal advocate for innovation and education in the coffee sector. He emphasizes the importance of processing and sensory skills, encouraging small producers to become skilled cuppers. “The best coffees in competitions often come from the best cuppers,” he notes, highlighting the direct link between sensory expertise and coffee quality. Under his leadership, SCAP has implemented educational programs to help farmers refine their techniques, ensuring that Panama remains at the forefront of specialty coffee production.

Fan Dian, founder of GrandCrü Coffee, brings a global perspective to Panama’s coffee industry. Hailing from Valence in the Rhone Valley, France—a region renowned for its wines—Fan applies the same pursuit of perfection to coffee. GrandCrü Coffee is celebrated for its meticulously crafted French blends, and Fan’s expertise as an international judge for the BoP competition underscores his influence in the specialty coffee world.

Fan’s journey into coffee is inspired by the environment of greatness that surrounds his hometown. At GrandCrü, master roasters carefully select, taste, and blend each bean to create aromatic adventures that balance every note and aroma. This commitment to excellence is evident in Fan’s role as a BoP judge, where his refined palate and deep understanding of coffee quality contribute to the rigorous evaluation process.

Boram Um’s historic win as the 2023 World Barista Champion marked a significant milestone in the coffee industry, not only for Brazil but also for Panama. Representing Brazil at the World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup in Greece, Boram’s victory brought unprecedented attention to Panamanian coffee, which he used during the competition.

As a guest cupper at the BoP auction, Boram’s insights and experiences highlight the exceptional quality of Panamanian Geisha. He praises it as “truly inspirational,” citing its unique combination of variety and terroir. His endorsement of Panamanian coffee underscores the global impact of the BoP auction and the continuous improvement in quality that Panamanian producers strive for each year. Boram’s success story is a testament to the global reach and influence of Panama’s coffee industry.

Lost Origin

A Platform for Excellence

The BoP auction is more than just a competition; it is a celebration of the country’s finest coffees and a testament to the dedication and innovation of its producers. Organized by SCAP, BoP has become a hallmark event in the specialty coffee calendar, attracting international judges, buyers, and enthusiasts.

Hunter, President of SCAP, reflects on the evolution of the BoP auction since its inception. “BoP started small 28 years ago and has become one of the most important coffee competitions globally,” he explains. Over the years, the event has grown in sophistication, with more elaborate venues, traditional Panamanian costumes, and dances enhancing the overall experience. The increase in the number of guest cuppers is another significant development, as Hunter notes, “This year, we doubled the usual number of guest cuppers from twenty to forty-two, to host more coffee lovers, buyers, and roasters, and to promote Panamanian coffee on a larger scale.”

Fan, founder of GrandCrü Coffee and an international judge for BoP, emphasizes the rigorous evaluation process that ensures only the highest quality coffees are showcased. “Panamanian producers continue to promote Panamanian coffee. They consistently strive to pick the best of the best each year,” she says, underscoring the dedication and meticulous effort put into each submission.

Innovation is at the heart of the BoP auction, driving continuous improvement in coffee quality. Franz attributes much of his success to the innovative spirit that permeates the Panamanian coffee industry. “When we started this project, we focused on understanding the impact of microbes on the final cup of coffee. Our goal is to produce clean, consistent coffees rather than just aiming for unique or funky flavors,” Franz explains. This scientific approach to coffee processing has yielded remarkable results, as evidenced by Lost Origin’s strong performances in the BoP competition.

The auction also provides a platform for showcasing the diverse and complex profiles of Panamanian coffee. Boram, the 2023 World Barista Champion, highlights the exceptional quality of the coffees he judged at BoP. “Panamanian Geisha is truly inspirational. It represents the best combination of variety and terroir,” he remarks. His endorsement of the coffees presented at BoP speaks volumes about the high standards maintained by Panamanian producers.

Maintaining the integrity of the competition is paramount for SCAP. Hunter elaborates on the measures taken to ensure fair play in the BoP auction. “We continuously adapt our methods to address new challenges. For instance, in the washed Geisha category, we ensure that coffees are judged purely on sensory evaluation,” he explains. By implementing a scale system to judge the cleanliness and fruity notes of coffees, SCAP ensures that only those meeting strict criteria advance in the competition.

SCAP’s stance on infused coffees is also clear, as Hunter asserts, “SCAP’s focus is on promoting clean, naturally produced coffees that reflect our terroir. We do not plan to include categories for infused or altered coffees in BoP.” This commitment to transparency and natural coffee production aligns with global standards and helps maintain the prestige and fairness of the BoP auction.

Overcoming Challenges and Embracing Opportunities

The specialty coffee industry in Panama faces several challenges, from extreme weather conditions to labor shortages. However, these obstacles also present opportunities for innovation and growth.

Hunter identifies climate change as a significant challenge for coffee producers in Panama. “We’re experiencing more extreme weather conditions—heavier rains, prolonged droughts, stronger winds,” he says. These conditions can impact coffee yield and quality, necessitating adaptive strategies and innovative agricultural practices.

At Black Moon Farm, Hunter employs regenerative agriculture to mitigate the effects of climate change. “Our goal is to establish a clean coffee production by trapping as much of the generated carbon back into the soil to naturally fertilize it,” he explains. By restoring soil fertility and promoting biodiversity, Hunter not only improves the resilience of his farm but also sets an example for sustainable coffee production.

Education and support for small producers are crucial for the continued success of Panama’s specialty coffee industry. SCAP has implemented several initiatives to enhance the knowledge and skills of farmers, particularly in processing and sensory evaluation. “Cupping, for instance, is crucial for farmers to improve their coffee quality. By becoming skilled cuppers, farmers can better adjust their processes and ensure they select the best coffee from their farms,” Hunter explains.

These educational programs have a direct impact on the success of producers in competitions like BoP. “We won first place in the varietals category this year. It was a significant achievement because it validated our ability to select the best coffee for the competition,” Hunter proudly states. The emphasis on cupping and processing skills ensures that even small producers can compete at the highest levels and achieve recognition for their exceptional coffees.

The spirit of community and collaboration is a driving force behind Panama’s coffee industry. Franz’s work at Lost Origin Coffee Lab exemplifies this collaborative approach. “The first person interested in my work was Diego Lecano from Santos Café. We started collaborating by sending him yeast and bacteria and creating fermentation protocols,” Franz recalls. This partnership led to a first-place win for a Pacamara coffee in the BoP competition, highlighting the power of collaboration in achieving excellence.

Similarly, the BoP auction brings together a diverse group of international judges, guest cuppers, and producers, fostering a sense of community and shared purpose. Fan’s role as an international judge and her praise for Panamanian coffee illustrate the global connections and mutual respect that define the BoP experience. “BoP offers access to the best selections from top producers, showcasing innovative processes and trends in quality,” Fan notes.

The future of Panama’s specialty coffee industry is bright, driven by a commitment to innovation, sustainability, and community. Hunter outlines plans for continuous improvement and modernization. “We’re always improving. Technology plays a bigger role now, like using specialized equipment for water. We’re also modernizing our roasting processes to enhance the coffee experience,” he says.

The upcoming World of Coffee trade show in Panama, the first in Central America, is a testament to the country’s growing influence in the global coffee scene. “It will benefit not just Panama but all Central American coffee producers by providing more exposure and opportunities,” Hunter asserts. This event will further cement Panama’s reputation as a leader in specialty coffee, showcasing its exceptional coffees to an even broader audience.

Trailblazing Innovations in Coffee Processing

Panama’s specialty coffee industry is characterized by its relentless pursuit of innovation, particularly in coffee processing techniques. From fermentation to drying, Panamanian coffee producers are continually pushing the boundaries to enhance the quality and uniqueness of their coffees.

Franz exemplifies the innovative spirit driving Panama’s coffee industry. Transitioning from beer fermentation to coffee processing, Franz applies his deep understanding of microbial life to create exceptional coffee profiles. “When we started this project, we focused on understanding the impact of microbes on the final cup of coffee,” he explains. This scientific approach involves controlling variables meticulously to ensure a clean and consistent product.

Franz’s pioneering methods include the use of HEPA filters, stainless steel equipment, and rigorous cleaning protocols. “We employ a CIP (Cleaning in Place) protocol with caustic soda, hot and cold water, and peracetic acid for sterilization,” he elaborates. Such measures ensure that the coffee remains uncontaminated and pure, allowing the natural flavors to shine through.

One of Lost Origin’s notable successes came from a collaboration with Diego Lecano of Santos Café. “The first person interested in my work was Diego Lecano. We started collaborating by sending him yeast and bacteria and creating fermentation protocols,” recalls Franz. This partnership led to a first-place win for a Pacamara coffee in the BoP competition, validating their innovative approach to fermentation.

Hunter’s Black Moon Farm is another beacon of innovation, particularly in sustainable and regenerative agricultural practices. Situated in Alto Quiel, Boquete, Black Moon Farm was transformed from degraded land into a thriving coffee plantation through regenerative techniques. “Our goal is to establish a clean coffee production by trapping as much of the generated carbon back into the soil to naturally fertilize it,” Hunter explains.

By planting diverse tree species to create a biodiverse forest canopy, Hunter enhances the growth of coffee trees while promoting soil fertility and microbial life. “Some species have been specifically planted to support the growth of the coffee trees under their shade, others to help trap nitrogen and others to produce food for the animals that help with pollination,” he adds. This holistic approach not only improves the quality of the coffee but also contributes to environmental sustainability.

The role of fermentation in coffee processing cannot be overstated, and Panama’s producers are at the forefront of exploring its potential. Franz highlights the differences between beer and coffee fermentation, noting that the latter involves more variables due to post-fermentation processes like roasting. “In beer, it’s easier to control fermentation because you’re drinking the direct product of yeast fermentation. In coffee, we’re still exploring the impact of different yeasts and bacteria,” he explains.

Lost Origin Coffee Lab’s focus on microbial control extends to their drying rooms, which also utilize HEPA filters to maintain a controlled environment. “Our drying rooms have controlled environments to prevent cross-contamination and ensure consistent drying,” says Franz. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that the final product is not only unique but also of the highest quality.

The impact of these innovative practices is evident in the accolades and recognition Panamanian coffees receive. Boram was particularly impressed with the Panamanian Geisha he encountered at BoP. “Panamanian Geisha is truly inspirational. It represents the best combination of variety and terroir,” he remarks. 

Global Recognition and Future Prospects

Panama’s coffees, particularly the renowned Geisha variety, have earned a stellar reputation on the global stage. Boram’s victory at the World Barista Championship with a Panamanian coffee brought significant attention to the country’s exceptional beans. “Winning the WBC with Panamanian coffees was amazing. BoP offers access to the best selections from top producers, showcasing innovative processes and trends in quality,” Boram states.

The Best of Panama auction plays a crucial role in this international acclaim. As Hunter notes, “BoP impacts Panamanian coffee by providing recognition and higher prices, benefiting all producers, even those not competing. It also breaks barriers for the specialty coffee world, setting new standards and expectations.” The auction not only highlights the best coffees but also sets benchmarks for quality and innovation that resonate worldwide.

The partnerships between producers, such as the collaboration between Franz and Diego Lecano, showcase the power of collective effort in achieving excellence. “Our growth has been rapid, achieving goals we thought would take five years within our first or second year,” Franz remarks, attributing much of this success to the support and collaboration within the coffee community.

The BoP auction itself is a testament to this collaborative spirit, bringing together producers, judges, buyers, and enthusiasts from around the world. Fan Dian highlights the importance of this event in promoting Panamanian coffee globally. “BoP offers access to the best selections from top producers, showcasing innovative processes and trends in quality,” she notes. The sense of community and shared purpose is palpable at these events, driving the industry forward.

Looking ahead, Panama’s specialty coffee industry is poised for further growth and innovation. The upcoming World of Coffee trade show in Panama, the first in Central America, is a significant milestone. “It’s a significant accomplishment. The Specialty Coffee Association chose Panama for the first World of Coffee in a producing country, recognizing our quality. It will benefit not just Panama but all Central American coffee producers by providing more exposure and opportunities,” Hunter explains.

Technological advancements and continuous improvements in processing techniques will also play a key role in the industry’s future. “We’re always improving. Technology plays a bigger role now, like using specialized equipment for water. We’re also modernizing our roasting processes to enhance the coffee experience,” says Hunter. These advancements will help Panama maintain its position at the forefront of the specialty coffee world.

The focus on sustainability and regenerative agriculture, exemplified by Black Moon Farm, will continue to be a driving force in the industry. By promoting environmentally friendly practices, Panama’s coffee producers are not only ensuring the long-term viability of their farms but also setting an example for the global coffee community.

As the industry continues to evolve, Panama’s coffee producers remain at the forefront of innovation, setting new benchmarks and inspiring the global coffee community. The future of Panama’s specialty coffee industry is bright, and its journey of excellence and innovation shows no signs of slowing down.